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COPYRIGHT 

S. G. WEILER 

1915 



The Weiler 

Ladies Tailor — Dressmaker 

Designer, Cutter and Fitter 

Book 




PUBLISHED BY S. G. WEILER DESIGNER 
MILWAUKEE 



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MAY -7 1915 



CI.A398733 




PROFESSOR S. G. WE1LER 



[k |Z^±ve ^VVeiler IiVcrtr>xctorl | 



The Weiler Block 

First Patents applied for in the United States, Canada and Europe. The 

Prize designing, cutting and fitting personally done by Mr. Weiler with 

Awards. hj s own method, has unconditionally been awarded First Prize 

Gold Medals, Diploma and Cup of Honor at the 1912-1913 Inter- 
national Exhibitions in London, Paris, Rome, Brussels and Bar- 
celona. 

Safe, The Weiler method will prove a great boon to Dressmakers, Ladies' 

Sure, Tailors, Designers, Cutters and Fitters, regardless of practical ex- 

Easy. perience or working knowledge, as it simplifies matters, making the 

work safe, sure and easy. 

Remark- Tailoring has been my sole occupation since a mere boy of twelve. 

able For twelve consecutive years I have been actively associated with 

Results leading ladies' tailors, and, any of these concerns, as well as the 

Attained. scores of satisfied clients 1 am serving in my own establishment. 

will gladly testify to the remarkable results attained with ease and 

accuracy by my simple method. 

Weiler I am a tailor and cutter possessing a thorough knowledge of every 

Has phase of the ladies' tailoring profession. I have studied the most 

Unusual advanced systems in tailors and cutters' academies, and in my own 

Ability. high class ladies' tailoring establishment, where the lowest price is 

sixty dollars and the average for suit or long top coat is seventy-five 

dollars, / person, illy do all the designing, cutting and fitting — the 

success of which is eloquently proved by hundreds of unsolicited 

letters of sincere praise. Is not this e\ idence of unusual ability." 

Tailor, My book and block from the standpoint of the dressmaker, the tail- 

C titter, ei / t j ie cu tter, the designer and fitter, must become invaluable be- 

Designer, cause it estaD lishes a complete understanding of each other, in a 

N tt6r 'w k sense ' P ermittin £ A11 to work as ° ne ' ex P ellin S the customary 
inHarmony waste of time tnrou S n misunderstanding, and assuring rapid, safe 

and sane results. 

Lightens Both the tailor and cutter readily assume a knowledge of design- 

ee Task. ing by my plain method, and, thus the world's oldest vocation- 
tailoring — is improved to a degree which positively eliminates er- 
rors and lightens the task. 

'leven 



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Mastered It matters not whether you arc- working for yourself, or employed 
in >i by others, or a cutter in need of designing yon may now be- 

' er y come accomplished in the same within a very short space ot time. 

I he- Cutting Block is completed with all large and small sizes and 
you can operate ii skillfully alter a couple ot hours' practice. 



'rime. 



Graduated I o bother with system is unnecessary, because the block is gradu- 

for Any ated to meet any size, however large or small, so that yon need only 

' Vw '-'- 1 '- locate the proper number for dress, coat, sleeves, waist or skirt. The 

sleeves will lit into the armholes, the underskirt with the top-skirt 

and shoulder with shoulder in a faultless manner. 






ll ^Jve "We Hear iK^trMctor] 



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The Weiler Block 

Designing | have also perfected a new designing plate in miniature size, 
,' //( ' which insures a normal 36 measure. By laying this plate on a 

''"'"■ s sheet of paper and drawing a line around it, in a minute's notice 

I. nst outers. . , , ,; .,, . ,. II- 1 

you produce a form ot Coat, Skirt or Dress, sketching lor the cus- 
tomer any front or back view she may desire to see. It you do not 
yourself do the sewing, hand this little sketch to your tailor or 
dressmaker, and he w ill see <if <i glance what is desired. 

Bf come Everybody interested in I. allies' Tailoring is now situated to 

(. Olll Retell! . ' . 1 • 1 1 ] J 1 , t , , 

. ;/ uuicklv attain a working knowledge, and become competent to earn 

to ham ,, ■ ___. , , & . . f . , . , , 

g- big money. \\ it li the use of the plate, the customer s wishes are al- 

Money. most instantly made clear to you. 



No More Regardless of whether you may have invested hundreds ot dollars 
Wasted to learn your present system, or how many months or years you have 

Labor. studied, or the number of instruction books you have gathered to- 

gether — ///e course you have finished or are about to finish is hard, 
impractical and anything but a guarantee of exactness. If the aver- 
age academic system is based on solid tacts and not high sounding 
theory, WHY does it require Three to Four Try-Ons? For the 
■very good reason that the garment does not fit. and, often, as von 
may recall, cannot be made to tit after hours of wasted effort and 
labor. 

II hyCutters \ l ar g e number of cutters today lack confidence in their cutting, as 
/'",-, so many garments are returned and refused, having been spoiled 

through a defective system, with slim chances of being adjusted. 



to Pleas 
antry. 



Turned [ n S(1 j tc f my na tural inclination, keen liking and lifelong expe- 

Slavnio- rience in the ladies' tailoring occupation, 1 have made numerous 

mistakes, due to faulty systems. However, Cutters, Tailors and 
Dressmakers need no longer apply themselves to any Trouble. My 
method has absolutely revolutionized the customary "slaving 
against wrong principles," to a pleasantry that warrants perfection. 

Page Thirteen 






^•■■-^^^/■•■■^■■■■•^-■^-■^^^••■•••-'••^ 



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Adjusts ('oats, Skirts, Sleeves, Dresses. Waists, Shirts, Aprons — for any- 

/^v// thing and everything pertaining to tailoring or dressmaking — a per- 

fect pattern can be quickly and inexpensively taken from this block, 
in any present or future style the world over. 

To purchase this book of "priceless" information is to save months 
and years of nerve destroying, fruitless study. It will give you im- 
mediate command of the only perfect dressmaking and ladies' tail- 
oring method in the universe. The combined patterns are included 
with the substantially bound book, which contains clear, logical 
explanations. Every design in this volume was made from the Weil- 
er Block. The entire system includes Coat, ( back and front ) ; Skirt, 
( back and front) ; Dress and Tailored Sleeves, and the Special De- 
signing Plates. 

Many of the best years of the author's life were devoted to perfect- 
ing this method and the original cost of production amounted to 
thousands of dollars. 






mZ^ly^G Weiler Iiv^tr\£ctorl | 



S 





First Pri2e 
Pans 1913 



First Prize 
Barcelona I9l2 




Cup ol Honot 
Paris 1913 





Fust Prize 
Brussel 1912 



First Prize 
Roma 1913 



First prizes and cup of honor awarded to S. G. Weiler, designer, in the In- 
ternational European Exhibition, Paris. 1913; Rome, 1913; Brussels, 1912; Bar- 
celona, 1 ( M2, for the designing, cutting and fitting of first class ladies' garments. 



Page Fifteen 






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Cold Medals 

Roma I'll f 



I .old Medali 
P»n 1013 



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Cold M.-.l.il 
Pan 191 ' 



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Gold Medal 
I mii. i .[i 1913 



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Cold Medali 
Barcelona 1912 






Medal 
Btuuel 1912 




Gold medals awarded to S. G. Weiler, designer, 1912 and 1913 in the Enter 
national Exhibition, Paris, London, Rome, Brussels and Barcelona for design 
ing, cutting and fitting of lirst class ladies' garments. 



Page s '< << 






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Diplomas awarded to S. G. Weiler, designer, 
1912 and 1913 in the International Exhibition, Paris, 
London, Rome, Brussels and Barcelona, for designing, 
cutting and fitting of first class ladies' garments. 



Page Nineteen 






^ 



■ ■ : 



KINGDOM OF SPAIN 



CITY OF BARCELONA 




INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION. 

MANUFACTURES ARTS - INDUSTRIES 




Under the Patronage ol the Offinal Corporation 
'I'mondeProductoresdeE^panaparael Fomentodela Export.icion 



CIUDADDE BABGELO'rlA 



MIQteiBWUM'ttWIHB 
jBiVWiiWO ihhaihi 



DECEMBER. 1912. MARCH. 1913. 

To be held at the UNIVERSITY OF INDUSTRY and GARDENS 



Commissioner General 

Mr Max Kaiser 

Telephone 179 Holborn 
Telegraphic Address "Patenovum 



24. HOLBORN. LONDON, EC 

19th February 1913. 



S. 0. Weiler Esj., 

246 West Water St 

MILWAUKEE Wis, 

U. S. A. 

Dear Sir, 

I have much pleasure to inform you that I have 

been told by the Juries of the INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITIONS at 

BRUSSELS and BARCELONA to express to you their congratulation: 

to your exceptional skill in designing, cutting and fitting 

of the costumes which you sent to the Exhibitions. 

It is a special pleasure for me, as I had similar 
remarks made to ne from the International Juries at former 
Exhibitions, PARIS and LONDON, who also greatly admired your 
Exhibits and remarked that your costumes are certainly the 
very best at the Exhibition. 

Trusting that you will be pleased to get to know 

about this. 

I remain, 

Yours faithfully 

THE COMMISSIONER CENERAL. 

Letter from the director of the International Exhibition of London: 



Payc Twenty-one 



p lgTKe W^eilef Irv<r> tr\ccto *>1 ff] 



¥ 



CONTENTS 



// ;, / Use the Weiler Block. Page 

Block of Skirts and Dress Sleeves 24 

Block of Coats or Waists, Tailored Sleeves ami Designing Blocks 25 

1 nstruction 

Measurements for Tailors and Dress Makers Js 

1 low to use the same measurement on the W eiler Block 29 

Cutting System for Waist 50-31 

The New Finished Block without Cutting System 32-33 

A complete Single Breasted Semi-fitted Tailored Coat >4-.v ; 

System for Sleeves 36-3! 

The New Tailored Sleeve Block Without System 58-39 

Complete Finished Sleeve W)-41 

Dress and Waist Sleeve System 42-4o 

The New Dress Sleeve Block without System 44-45 

Waist or Dress Sleeve 46-47 

Skut System 4S-4 l > 

The New Skirt Blocks without System 50-51 

Finished Skirt 52-53 



Cutting, Fitting and Tailoring Section. 

Fitting of ladies' Garments 54-55 

Cutting 56 

Tailoring ;_ 

Lining and Trimming - s 

Different Styles of Garments 59 

H :. t C'nt Different Styles of If, lists. Tailored Coats, Sleeves, Skirt and Capes. 

Plain Waist 60-61 

Shirt and Shirt Waist J-63 

Apron 64-65 

Fitted Waist 66-67 

Waist with Seam from Shoulder to Bust Front 68-69 

Waist Front Shoulder with Seam. Baek without 70-71 

\ Complete Tailored Coat. Hip measure 40 inches 72-73 

Waist Front and Baek with Seam 74" ; 

Panel Front and Panel Baek Tailored Coat 76-77 

1 Jit fitted Waist 78-79 

Finished Coat, tight fitted hack. Semi-fitted front 80-81 



- 






Riding Habit Coat. Hip measure 4(1 inches ^2-8.^ 

Raglan Style Waist 84-85 

Raglan Stj le Overcoat 86-8 

Instruction for Kimono Style Front and Back 88-89 

Kimono Sleeve Coat. Dress or Waist, without shoulder scams 90-91 

Extra large si/e Tailored Coat 92-93 

Diagram showing 52 Bust and 62 Hip, Finish Coat 94-95 

How to Cut Different Sleeves. 

Plain Tailored Sleeve 96 

Tailored Sleeve with front Seam turned in 98-99 

Plaited Sleeve 100-101 

Rafflan Sleeve 102-103 



// :. t i Ciil .inJ Make Different Capes. 



~> 



Cape without Shoulder seam 104-10: 

Cape with Shoulder seam 106-107 

High Collar Cape 108-109 



How to Cut Different Skirts. 

Skirt Back and Front 110-111 

Skirt without Side Seam 112-113 

Panel Front and Panel Back 114-11 

Seven piece Skirt 116-1 1/ 

Plaited Skirt 118-119 

Riding Breeches 120-121 

Ridine Habit Skirt 122-123 



i 



How to Design With the JVeiler Block. 

Designing Suit and Long Coat 

Designing Dress 

Finished Designing '26 



nty-three 



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Block of Skirt and Dress Sleeve 




The two top methods show the front .uul back oi 
skirt block which is made from 56 to 62 hip measure. 
Pick out the even numbers according to the hip meas- 
ure, connect together .\nA make the skirt as long as de- 
sired. 

The other method shows a dress or waist sleeve 
block which is made from 32 to 52 inches bust measure. 
l.a\ this block on any part ol the paper and pick out the 
even numbers and connect together and the dress sleeve 
is read} , 1 ook at page 2 



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Weiler Iiy^rtrMctor 






Block of Coat or Waist, Sleeve and Designing Block 






The top method shows the front and hack of coat or waist, 32 to 
52 bust measure. 

The block on the lower left side shows a perfect sleeve from 32 to 
jii.-»»4 52 bust measure. 

The sleeves tit into the armholes perfectly. 

The right side is a tailored suit that is a designing model and from 
which you can design any other styles. 

The center cut shows a dress model. To be used same way as the 

suit model. 

Look page 2 i . 

Pagi Twenty-five 



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Instructions 



The Weiler Block is arranged with a size scale of 32 to 52 bust. 

The Sleeves are the same. 

Skirts range from 36 to 62 hip measure. 

For the Coat, the center back to center front should be on an even 
line with the dip oi the armhole. 

Draw a straight line across your cutting paper and lay the block, 
thereon, so that the two straight lines under the armholes are directly 
opposite each other. 

Now locate the number for your width of bust and mark through 
the dotted holes with your pencil point, being careful not to mark the 
wrong numbers. Remove the block when you have placed all the 
proper dots, and connect same. 

Thus you will have finished the arrangement without that unpleas- 
ant strain caused by systems, as they are complicated and uncertain. 

My block enables you, with utmost ease and safety, to quickly draft 
loose or tight fitted garments, Long Coats, Raglans, Dresses. Kimo- 
nos. Skirts, Sleeves, Aprons or any type of Sporting Garments. 

By merely devoting slight attention to my simple instructions, you 
will become agreeably surprised at the remarkable results. 

Should you have any style or figure which is not normal, take the 
correct measurements and use as shown in instruction book on next 
page. 



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sabs - iccess - s . - - - - - 

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This shows how to use the measurements on the block 
Follow diagrams closely. 
See the fitting section. 




-nine 



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Cutting System for Waists 



^ . . iere st - - 51 g r norm; 

ersizes 

ntal lin« - ss the top - 

Uel liiw - n 

ck g the bust measure. 

On I - -allel 1 . n the fi 

On back line g - 

The 5 s stleng 

G in at top i back 2 ches n this g tip inch. 

On lint ^ 1 7 ches 

On line - g iches 

On line 7 a iches 

n top end t g ; iches, and d : iches 

leek. 

On mt line g iches 

ont lengi - Q incite 

On leng - a in 1 inch anc. le sa ne in 

Use p • . . . \ irh the >ack 

le 4 g - c he?. 

it nhole depdi 

■ S 

\ . . - - cross eat 

- - g un. 

... :te the under armh 

-: . • g i 7 iches 

n 7 g iches 

N - . inch from each sidt . and 

con: ect as s g am. 

_ id see the d Serence : this 

stem curt 12 :k , 









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i 




Thirty-one 






^ 



The New Finished Block without Cuttting System 



This diagram shows how the Weiler Block may be adjusted 

for large or small sizes, from 32 to 52 bust measure. 

To complete size of any kind of coat or waist, mark through 
all the numbers which correspond with your bust measure, and 
join together. 

All sizes are obtained in the same way. 

The instruction book tells how to make any style of coat or 
waist. 



Page Thirty-two 






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A Complete Single Breasted Semi Fitted Tailored Coat 

This diagram shows that any style of tailored coat can easily 
be made with the Weiler Block. 

See pages 74, 75, 76, 77 of instruction book. Allow two 
inches on front for buttons and button holes. 

For double breasted coat two inches extra. 

Look how the collar is designed on the neck. 



. 






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Fa^e Thirty-five 



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System for Sleeve. 

With this Mr. Weiler made his block, from 36 down to 32, 
and up to ?>2. It produces a perfect fitting armhole, when size 
of same corresponds w ith bust size. 

Draw a horizontal line across the top. From beginning of 
this, draw a parallel line down the side. 

On top line go in l " _» inches, which is | . of bust measure 
plus ! 2 inch. 

Divide top line in half. 

Go down on same 2 l / 2 indies, 3j |. 5 ' j and 13^4, which is 
the location of elbow, now go down to 23, or any length desired 
for sleeve. 

Draw a straight line put from each of the above numbers, as 
shown on diagram. 

Connect the ' ■ on top with line S l /2 on front. 

On this little pointed line go up I ' . inches, to about T 4 
inch above the 2' _> line. 

On line 2 come hack 1 inch from front. 

On line 3] \ come back ; 4 inch and 4- ; j inches. 

This is the end o[ under sleeve which comes together with 
cnA o\ top sleeve line 2 [ _•. 

On line 13] . come backward from front 2' , and 7 inches. 

On bottom in front, ^o backward J- ; j inches, and on tliis go 
up ' 2 inch. 

From _- ; ; go backward 4 inches and 5 2 inches. 

Connect all the parts as shown on diagram. 












^ 



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Page Thirty-neve i 






The New Tailored Sleeve Block without Cutting System. 

As for the coat front and back, mark through the numbers 
which correspond with the bust size. Connect all the pencil dots, 
and the sleeve is ready. 

Follow instructions in the book, and all kinds of sleeves may 
be made to properly tit into the armhole. 



Page Thirty-eight 



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Page Thirty-nim 



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Complete Finished Sleeve 

The pointed lines show how the sleeve looks when it is ready. 



Forty 



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Page Forty-one 






Dress and Waist-Sleeve System. 

Draw a horizontal line across the top. From this draw a 
parallel line down the side. 

On top line go forward / ' | inches. On side line go down 5 
inches. 

The length is l l » inches. 

Connect 7 1 j with 5. 

On this line go down from 7 1 i and 4 inches. Go in bottom 
2 inches on front. 

Connect as shown on diagram. 



/■'• rty-two 



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The New Dress Sleeve Block without System. 



On the side parallel line, the cloth including the top of 
sleeve, always lavs folded double, but the bottom can be made as 
long or wide as the stvle demands. 

For fancy dress or waist, always change the length and 
\\ idth on sleeve bottom. 



I iy-four 









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Waist or Dress Sleeve 



This sleeve is usually made in halt or three-quarter length. 

The style of this sleeve being shorter than ordinary, may be 
made I ' ■ or 2 inches larger on bottom than the block allows. 
The top is stationary. 

This sleeve is always cut in one piece. 

In placing sleeve in armhole, the sleeve seam must go for- 
ward 1 inch from the under armhole coat seam. 



Forty-six 









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Skirt System. 



With this diagram, Mr. Weiler in.uk- his block in 36 to 62 
lip measure. 



Draw a horizontal line across the top. From this draw a 
parallel line down the side. 

Go down on side, 2-vj , 3] >, 7' _., I I ' _• inches, and continue to 
the length of skirt. 

On top go in one-half your hip measure, and from here 
come backward 4-' i inches and connect with 3J/4 inches. 

Divide in halt, and go down ] j inch to get your regular 
top 1 ine. 

From .i 1 .. go in one-half your waist measure, plus ' _• inch, 
which equals 6'_. inches. 

From 4 ; | come forward one-half your waist measure, less 
1 inch, which equals 5] _. inches. 

On line 11' go in one-half hip measure, plus l /> inch. 

Come forward on same line from back, one-half hip meas- 
ure, less ! 2 inch, foin both of these together. 

On line 7 1 __■ go forward % inch. 

Line 1 1 ' _., on side seams go backward ' 4 inch. 

Cut out ' s inch from between the two side seam lines, but 
onl\ if skirt is made with side seam. 

Connect 4- ; j with line 1 1 ' _■ on back. 

Draw a parallel line to the desired length of skirt. 

Connect all the parts as shown on diagram. 



Page Forty-eight 



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/'(/(/.' Forty-nine 



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Weiler I 



1 



The New Skirt Blocks without System 




This shows the front part of skirt in 36 to 62 hip measure. 

Merelj mark through the numbers which correspond with 

the hip measure and join the dots together. 
Make the skirt to length desired. 






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The New Skirt Blocks without System 




This shows the back part of skirt, which is made in the same 
way as front. Join front and back together to make any kind of 
skirt with or without side seam. 



Fifty-one 



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Finished Skirt 



This shows you a complete skirt panel hack, and panel 
front, with or without side seam. 

Four additional inches are required for any kind of seam 
or plait on the hack. 

See pages 28 and _ ,( ' of instruction hook. 



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Fitting of Ladies' Garments. 

If you do the fitting, and have the sewing done by others, when an altera- 
tion is required, call the tailor into the fitting room and show him what changes 
are needed. I his will enable him to easily understand how to make the altera- 
tions. 

There is \\o titter or s\ stem in the world, however expensive, that can always 
guarantee perfection oi tit, without a try-on. 

It a lady's figure is not normal, it is impossible to tit her properly without 
a try-on. 1 he teacher or salesman oi am system, who claims it can be done, 
misrepresents. 

\ll of the so-called systems invariably requite one or more fittings — for 
a normal figure, and by taking into consideration the large number of misfits, 
you can judge tor yourseli that the systems are not sate. 

Make all the garments yon can, because practice and experience w ill make 
you a perfect fitter of any type of figure. 

Most mistakes can easily be corrected it the garment is placed on the per- 
son so that it hangs evenlj at both sides. In this way, should the figure not be 
regular, you can see w hich side to take in and which to let out, wherever neces- 
sary. 

Also follow the same plan on the shoulders, in order to see which is the cor- 
rect line for any figure. 

Fitting Knowledge of System. \ ou know fitting is the principle featute 

in the making of a garment. Ho you not recall that often times when you ha\ e 

made two suits tor the same person, one would tit perfectly, while the other 

proved to be a complete misfit. This has been the experience of most cuttets 

and is proof positive that systems cannot be relied upon. 

My Block does away with all uncertainty. It has a size seale of 52 to 52 
bust, w ith corresponding sleeve sizes. 1'he si/e seale oi Skirt Block is 36 to (12 
hip measure. If you wish to use the odd numbers, whieh are not show n on the 
Block, take those numbers nearest to \ our bust measure, and cut your pattern 
latget or smaller accordingly. Plaee the odd numbers between the numbers 
on the block. 

My Block guarantees the perfect lines. Any si/e and style can be made 
from the same. 

As each person has a different figute, be sure to take the measure eare- 
fully, and use same as directed on pages 28 and 20 oi insttuction book. I'his 
will show you how to obtain the correct si/e and position. 

If the front is high, the measure w ill be more. Should the person be larg- 
er or smaller than normal, this book will show you everything according to cor- 
rect measures on pages 28 and 20. 

Prominent, high bust, makes large front, and smallet across the back. Hol- 
low front makes large back. When back is round, the front shoulder part is 
shorter, the back shoulder part longer, and it is always hollow aeross the chest 
between the two shoulder fronts. 

With the correct length, width and measures, and proper attention to the 
fitting, everything can be made perfectly. 



p| |Z^±ve Weiler ItVc$>tr\ictori 

Fitting of Ladies' Garments. 

If the garment has no seam on the center back, for a person with round 
back, shape it in the tailoring. Press the center back round and shrink the 
same on both sides. 

Hold in the back shoulder slightly more than for a normal coat. 

Always baste the sleeves in for fitting, so you can see the proper elbow 
and full length. 

Mark the sleeve on the right place, because if it is set too far backward, 
when the wearer moves her arms forward the sleeves will bind and the arm- 
hole will cut, while the back will wrinkle and appear too small. 

If the sleeve is set in too far forward, the same trouble will occur with the 
front. 

Always place the sleeve in the armhole, according to the person's build. 

Do not finish the collar for fitting, because if the shoulder needs chang- 
ing there will thus be needless extra work. 

Merely pin a canvas collar on the coat for fitting and shape it to the neck. 

Finish your collar after the fitted canvas, and place on the neck as specified 
by the marks. 

Wide sailor or fancy collars are made the same way, but larger or smaller, 
as the styles demand. 

If the waist line is too long, you can easily alter it by raising up the back 
of the shoulder. If the waist line is short, just reverse this rule. 

If the coat falls away at the bottom in front, you can fix it by raising up the 
front shoulder, but make the armhole deeper in same proportion, so it will not 
be too high. 

If armhole is too deep, it seriously affects the fit of coat, as it doesn't permit 
the person to raise her arm high enough. This alteration can be made by rais- 
ing the shoulder to the necessary degree. When coat is raised at top, let down 
a like amount at bottom, and bust point. 

If the lapels stand out too much, do not attempt to work them in, as certain 
kinds of material will not stand it. 

Lapels can be made any length desired, if you have the collar in the right 
location, because the set of the collar affects the length and shape of the lapel. 

If the top lapel is too high, from raising too much on shoulder, cut down 
the top lapel on neck portion, and put the collar on accordingly. 

Skirt Fitting. 

It is very important to place the skirt on the person so it hangs evenly on 
both sides. This permits you to see where the figure is not normal, and take 
in or let out wherever necessary on the seam. However, be careful not to al- 
low the skirt to lose its lines. 

Always cut the skirt length to the floor, then mark evenly all around the 
bottom, at the proper distance from floor to obtain the length of skirt which 
customer desires. 

Waist line can be made in any height to suit you. If high waist line is 
preferred, put the belt around the person's waist, and finish the skirt onto the 
same. 

Page Fifty-fiv< 



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Cutting 

Before cutting broadcloth, velvet, plush and all fabrics that have 
a nap. sec that the nap is smoothed down. Velveteen should be cut 
v\ ith the nap up. Material having no nap can be cut either way. 

However, for striped material, place your pattern so that stripes 
match perfectly on back, front, sleeve, top collar and facing. When 
using silk, if you do not cut each part of coat and skirt the same way, 
the finished garments will vary in shade. 

1 o a\ oid trouble when working on the garments, be sure to sponge 
woolen and cotton cloths thoroughly before cutting. 

Also sponge thoroughly the canvas, interlining and tape. 

Allow desired width for seams on shoulder, side seam, neck and 
bottom. 



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Tailoring 

Shape the coat collar straight or round, according to the ladies' 
figure. 

Shape the collar round for a stout figure, so that when the lady 
stands erect, the coat will not wrinkle across the back. For slender 
figure and long neck, make the collar perfectly straight. 

For a regular tailored coat, the center back on the waist line must 
be well shaped with the press iron. 

All the inside seams should be stretched rather than clipped, so the 
garment can easily be enlarged if necessary. For high bust figure, the 
edge of waist line should be well stretched. 

If the cloth will not give enough, cut the canvas on the front waist 
line about 6 inches deep, and spread it about I inch, to make room for 
an extra piece of canvas, which should be placed in such a way as to 
cause the waist to shape in properly under the bust line. 

Always set the sleeve in the back part of armhole a little short. 
Mold the front sleeve on the shoulder part so it will be a little full. 

Sew the canvas together exactly the same way as the cloth. Canvas 
seams on front must match perfectly with top cloth seams. 

Always sew the under collar by hand, because if the canvas is 
stitched to the cloth by machine, the sewing thread will break while 
being stretched. 

Silk lining cannot be pressed while damp. 

Never put the jacket lining in too snug, because the outside of coat 
will show it. 

Join the different parts of the coat together evenly at the waist line, 
in order to effect the true balance. 

The collar on the shoulder seam part should always be set in 
slightly fuller than on other parts of neck. 

Always set in a little full the second front at bust point, and stretch 
to a like degree, the same portion on waist line. 

Join the skirt seams together evenly, otherwise the skirt will 
wrinkle. 

If the skirt has plaits, tape them on the inside, to prevent the skirt 
from flaring out. 

Patjc Fifty-seven 



N lZT±v^ Weilef IrVcy^liJ^Aj: o to x»| tj 



Linino" and Trimming 



To cut plain lining, lay the pattern any way excepting: on the bias. 

When using striped lining, see that it matches perfectly at center 
hack, front and sleeves. 

Place plait on center back lining. 

Allow plenty of lining so that if coat should be too small, the 
seams, and bottom, may be let out. Use rather a little extra lining than 
not enough. 

Cut front canvas straight. Cut second front and bust point can- 
\ as on the bias. Bottom of sleeve likewise. 

For under collar, cut the canvas as much bias as possible, so the 
collar can be stretched round as wanted. 

The under lining for coat and sleeve must be cut the way the cloth 
runs. 



For Skirt. 



Cut the skirt placket straight, and sponge all the braid before sewing 
im to the skirt. 



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k lZ^±ve AVeiler Irv<rtr\jo toJFI fj 



Different Styles of Garments. 

Dress. 

Use the Weiler Block in the same way for waist and skirt, as for 
any kind of dress, because it is only necessary to connect the waist and 
skirt on the waist line, to make a dress. 

For a one-piece Princess Dress, use the waist block, and make 
the same way as any other fitted garment, in any length of dress desired. 
See directions for fitted garments in the instruction book. 

For a long coat, use the numbers on block which correspond with 
the measurement. Make the coat from waist line down evenly all 
around the bottom, and in any length desired. 

Fancy Garments. 

Any present or future style can be made from the Weiler Block. 
If the styles change, merely follow the new style proportions, and cut 
your seams and place plait or gathering accordingly. 

For Kimono and Raglan instructions, see pages 13, 15 and 16 in 
the book. 



Norfolk Suits. 

If wanted with yoke, make as style shown. Cut the paper where 
the yoke on the coat or skirt is to be, allow a seam on both ends of cloth 
and sew together at the portion where the yoke comes. If strips and 
belts are needed, make same two inches wide and place them where the 
style indicates. 

Patch pockets should be placed 10, 11 or 12 inches below the arm- 
hole. 



Page Fifty-nine 



^' '■■■-■'■■■■■■ -■■••• -'-•• •:•■• •^^ .^^.^:>^,:^:,>, TT^J 



Plain Waist. 

1 w:\ size of waist or coat made the same way, take meas- 
urement from eoiitcr back of neck, over the shoulder, the highest 

part of bust, where you see the heavy line, ,\nd A 

We will now draw a line 2} 2 inches in to meet letter A. 

Repeat this from B to C on waist line. 

Front length B is always the same as the measurement. 

The sleeve front seam for all sizes should he 2 inches for- 
ward, from the under armhole seam. 

From B to C is J . inches. 

Place an under armhole side seam on waist line 2 x /> inches 
forward, and continue the same to D of waist measure Mid 
plus J inches. 



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Page Sixty-one 



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Shirt and Shirt Waist. 



To cut a shirt or shirtwaist, we locate on the block the size 
of bust measurement, and draw a line around exactly the same as 
for a coat. 

At hack of neck on the dot, and front of neck on the dor, 
And all around the armhole, go in J inches, as shown on the dia- 
gram. 

From the waist line on the center of hack, go out 2 inches 
and run the line down to the desired length of garment. 

For an extra large shirt, locate the dot at bottom of waist 
line, then go 1 ! _> inches back from the same, and connect the un- 
der armhole point with the enlarged portion, which will get the 
shirt 6 inches larger. 

The shirt can be buttoned on the shoulder or in the front. 

Front, back and sides should all be the same length from the 
waist line to the bottom. 



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I'mjc Sixty-three 






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Apron. 



For the apron, we proceed the same as for shirt. If the 
apron is to fit snugly, the waist line remains natural. 

It wanted one-half form fitted, trace 1 inch in, all around 
the neck and ' _• on armhole. If wanted loose, 2 inches around 
the neck, and an inch on armhole. 

Make the apron any length, hut the top should always re- 
main the same. For loose apron make larger also on back waist 
line and under armhole, side seam. 

Button in front or on shoulder. 

To include pockets, always go down 12 inches from under 
armhole and S inches forward from the side seams. 



Sirty-four 






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Fitted Waist. 



Any kind of fitted coat or waist can be made from this 
>.han. When the patterns arc laid out, and the lines made. 
measure the bust height from center back oi neck over the 
shoulder to the trout. Draw in a straight line from the bust 
height point, then go in on this line 2] _ inches, now continue 
on same line to the -> ; inches, from which point go inch 
higher up. 

From bottom oi waist length in front, go in same distance 

• inches as at the bust height line. Also come forward from 
under armhole waist line _ : _ inches, and now you have 5 inches 
Take in one-half the space that remains between the first and the 
last 2lj inch spaces, and on the same u r o backward and forward 
1 2 inch, joining together w ith the top line of bust height if the 
width oi waist is 24 inches, half on front as before figured, ; 
inches, and 1 inch between the two notches, which together 
makes 6 inches or one-half oi the half waist measure. 

If the width of the waist is more or less than 24 inches, 
figure accordingly from the 2] \ inches. However, the space in 
front is permanenth 2 ■ inches, the space between always re- 
mains 1 inch. On the back go in 3 inches from the center back 
waist line, then lay up the same to under armhole side seam 
line and go out until you secure the other 6, or the other one. 
half oi half waist measurement, between the 3 inch spaces and 
the waist measure, cut out as high as vou want and the waist 
measure is completed. 



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/'//i/r' Sixty-si 






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Waist With Seam From Shoulder To The Bust Point. 



Whenever a semi-fitted or loose coat or vest is required for 
a lady having a prominent bust, same can be made without am 
difficulty. Measure the bust at its highest point and go in 
inches. Divide the shoulder in half and join together with bust 
point. Now go 1 inch out at either side from the middle shoul- 
der line, and join the two lines together with the bust point as 
shown on diagram. 

In sewing these seams together see that bust portion is not 
pointed, as it is preferable to have it slightly round. 

From this point down to waist line the front can be made 
fitted or loose. 

Below bust line la\ the cloth on dotted seams, or cut it out 
exactly in accordance with the style. 

You can place this seam to any place desired, from the neck 
to bust point, or from the front under armhole line to the bust 
point. Be careful, however, to replace at both sides the amount 
you cut out from between the shoulders to the bust point. 









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Page Sixty-nine 



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Waist Front Shoulder With Seam. Back Without. 

\- shown on diagram 5, divide the shoulder in half, and 
at both sides take out I inch and join together with bust point. 
Replace the same at both sides as shown on diagram. Go in on 
waist line from center front. 2} ■ inches, the same amount as at 
bust point, now go in 2'_- inches farther. Join together with the 
bust point in such a manner that bust will not be pointed. 

At the back go down 3 inches from shoulder point. 

Divide the back on under armhole line in half. 

Go in 3 inches on the waist line. Put the 3 incites on the 
under armhole waist line, then come hack . of waist measure- 
ment, and 1 inch. Now joint together as shown in diagram. 



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/',(,,, Seventy-ont 












A Complete Tailored Coat. Hip Measure 40. 

1 have shown on former diagram instructions for this style 
of waist, and now my purpose is to give you necessary details to 
complete the coat. 

First draw a parallel line the full length of hack, and the 
full length oi front. 

From the waist line on hack go down S inches, on the front 
7 inches, and this gives you the depth of hip. 

To get the center hack, go out ' _> inch from the parallel 
line to S, from the same in .> ; j inches to A, because the hack 
should be '■ 2 inch larger on hip line than on waist line. 

At 7 go in 2]A inches, same as at top. 

From A to B, 1 ' 2 inches. 

From B go forward 7 inches, from C also 7 inches, now 
add together the 2] _ inch front, the 3] 2 inch hack and the two 
sevens, making in all 20 inches, which is one-half the hip 

measure. 

In order to get a larger or smaller hip measure, leave the 
hack and front stationary. Back 3 )A inches. Front 2 _. inches. 

If hip measure is to he larger or smaller than 40 inches, the 
dotted lines from B to end of 7. and from C to end oi ~. which 
points give you the side seams, should he made wider or nar- 
rower, in accordance with the hip measure. From waist line 
to length oi coat every seam should he made evenly long. 

For collar, button and button holes, look at pages 34-35. 



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Waist Front and Back With Scam. 

Always use the regular block and measure. 

On the bust height line go in 2j _• inches. At bottom on 
waist line the same. 

Place 2 inches on under armhole side seam, as shown on 
.1111. and go forward oi the waist measurement, plus 

2 inches. If more room is wanted for the bust, it will be pro- 
vided between the notches below the bust. 

Join the dotted center line at the shoulder to the bust point. 
Cut out 1 inch from each side at top of shoulder, and as per 
gram, replace the same on armhole and on neck. 

If bust is not very large, of course, take out less. If bust is 
hollow, do not take awaj anything, but use the diagram without 
any changes. 

Shoulder at back as with fore shoulder, divide in half and 
go forward ' _- inch, adding the amount to the armhole. 

At back, go in 3 inches on waist line. Place the same 3 
inches on under armhole side seam and come back ' . of v 
measure, plus .- inch. 

\ w join all the lines together as shown on diagram. 

For slendei p< - n, or lo s< is unnecess cut 

out anything on back shoulder 1 eave this plain, the same as 
where shoulder is divided. 



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Page Seventy-five 



M |zy±ve ^W^eiler Iiv<rtr>j:ctorl ^ 



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Panel Front and Panel Hack Tailored Coat. 



I se the same arrangement as on diagram 75 and finish in 
same manner at bottom and hip line as on diagram 73. Observe 
carefully how the diagrams look. For collar ami button ami 
button holes look at pages 34-35. 



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/'rw< Seventy-seven 



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lis 



Tight Fitted Waist. 

At depth oi armhole Line go in from center back 3 inches. 
Now continue ' i inch farther. Divide the space between this 
1 | inch and under armhole point in halt. 

At back on armhole go down 1 •* ( inches. From this con- 
tinue to _■' i inches. 

Connect I ; i and 3 with dotted Line. Run a ' _• inch diag- 
onal Line from middle of the dotted line, to secure the round 
seam line, as shown on diagram. 

At bottom of back on waist line go in ' _• inch, which makes 
the hack draw in, producing a better lit. From this point go in 
I 1 .) inches, which gives width of back. Cut out ) j inches. 

Now go in 2' • inches farther. Cut out ' _• inch. Now go 
in J'j inches, aw^I you have the waist measure. 

Round out each of the J under armhole lines | j inch, to 
make a better fit. 

For a large measurement, add enough to the 2' _■ inches to 
increase the space according to the si/e wanted. The back 
should always remain 1 | j inches. 



nty-eight 



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/''/i/c Seventy-nine 






kj |gy±ve "W^eHerr Iiv^trxtc torN 



Finished Coat. Tight Fitted Back. Semi-Fitted Front. 



Same instructions apply for back and trout, as on former 
diagrams, excepting that a tight fitting coat should be cut in 
more parts. 

Go out ; inch at the back, hip line, to obtain the outline of 
back. From this point go in £4 inch to A, which gives the back 
side seam. 

•"..ure B, by dividing the distance from A to C in halt. 
from B go backward : . inch and from this point arc backward 
and forward in each direction 2] _ inches, which gives the width 
of the second side piece. 

Be sure that all the lines from waist to bottom are of equal 
length. The back width i-'i hip line must always be _■ inch more 
than that on waist line. 

If hip measure is to be larger or smaller than +0 inches, 
make the size from the -^ on second side piece at hip line, ac- 
cordingly larger or smaller, instead of 2 "■ _• from the B- : ^. But 
between A and C always divide the same . to get B. 

For collar and button and button holes look at pages 34-35. 






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Riding Habit Coat. Hip Measure 40 inches. 



The instructions for the top are similar to those alreadj 
given for a tight fitting coat. 

On front waist line, go in - ; j inches and from this J inches, 
instead of 2 1 _• inches. At bottom 4 inches, and join together. 

From 4 at bottom, go in 4'_. inches and join together with 
waist line as shown in diagram. 

The hack width on waist line is 1 ' t inches. On hip line it 

is 1 ; | inches, just ; inch more, as on the waist line. 

From 1 ; ; inches go out to A 1 inch. 

Go in 5 inches from A. Oo in 5 inches from C: B is lo- 
cated between these two 5 inch lines. From B, arc backward 

and forward 2 ' _■ inches in each direction. This gives the sec- 
ond side piece. Add to edge front from waist line to top 2 
inches. From waist line to bottom 1 | > inches, for button and 
button holes. 

If a slit is desired in back, 1 ; ( inches of additional cloth 
will be required from the waist line to bottom. All the lines 
from waist to bottom must be of equal length. 

Allow more cloth on hip line of riding habit than for ordi- 
nary coats, as a riding habit demands more fullness at the seat. 
Cut out ! 2 inch about ; inches deep on neck. It hip is more or 
less than 40 inches, make the rives according!) more or less. 



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Raglan Style Waist. 



First take out on block the size desired, to comph with bust 
measure. Connect back and trout of line at depth of under arm- 
hole with both shoulder points at armhole. On front portion 
of neck go up inch and in ' _• inch. From shoulder point- 
on hack go down J- ; inches on front 3| inches. On back 
shoulder point go up > inch. 

From center oi under armhole. go forward and backward 
m each direction about 2' _■ inches. 

Draw a line down ' ', inch. Now go upward 2] > inches 
Go down a^ain .\nd draw a inch line from each side of the 
regular armhole line. Now connect all the numbers as shown 
on diagram. You ma\ then produce from this, any style raglan 

coat or waist. 

However, to cut a larger coat, instead of inch allow 
ch, and instead of .- allow - : inch around the armhole. 

If the bust is very large, take out from shoulder to the bust 
point and replace the same as per instructions for other coats. 






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Raglan Style Overcoat. 



Follow same instructions as on diagram 85. 

As stated before, allow ' _■ instead of ' [, ami ; i instead of 
' 2, around the armhole. 

At back of waist line go out 1 ! '<. Join together with neck 
down to desired length of coat. 



On under armhole waist line, go backward 2 inches from 
the front line. Also go forward 2 inches from the back, and 
join these together from under armhole point to length of coat 
wanted. The first line represents the back. The back line rep- 
resents the front part. Add 4 inches to edge if front is to be 
double breasted, for single breasted 2 [ ■ inches. 

About 4 inches below top of neck, cut out ' | inch under the 
lapel as per diagram. Making collars, see the page where a 
complete finished semi-fitted tailored coat is shown. 



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Instructions For Kimona Style — Front and Hack. 



This diagram shows how easil) anj kimono sleeve pattern 
can be made from the Weiler Block. 

I'wn different kimono sleeve coats are shown here. The 
top has loose armhole, and the oilier slight!) fitted armhole. 

| nst follow the diagram; it is very simple, requiring abso- 
lutelj no system. The back and front of kimono sleeve coats 
cannot be cut together. The single crossed notch represents 
loose armhole. On back from armhole shoulder point go up 
1 ■ inch. From the under armhole depth line go out !.>'.• inches. 
On this line go up 2^j inches and down 5] i inches. From under 
armhole point go down I ' 2 inches and connect as shown on dia- 
gram. The single crossed notch on back should come direct!) 
under the single crossed notch on front, for which follow same 
directions as for back. I he front shoulder armhole point must 
remain the same as on block. 

The 22 inches on top sleeve is the length oi sleeve, hut you 
can make according to your measure. 

The double crossed notch slight!) fitted armhole with a line 
similar to back outline, square up 4 inches I rom the shoulder and 
neck point. 

From armhole shoulder point go up ' | inch, connecting 
with 4. This gives the top sleeve and shoulder seam. Draw 
line down to the length of sleeve measure, 26'j- From same 
armhole shoulder point go down ' i inch. Curve I rom neck 
shoulder point, drawing the line through ' 1 down to 26] ■ inches. 
( ro down 33 1 inches from under armhole point. 

From 2(> ] ■ square down to 6} > inches, which gives the half 
sleeve width. Connect t] ■ and C under armhole point, with 
a line 13 inches long. 

Round the line about I inch below I ■'• [, so wearer max more 
convenientl) raise her arm. Adhere to same instructions for 
front. The crossed double notches are guides for properl) 
matching and putting together the back and I rom. 

Single notches on front must be directl) over the single 
notches on back, and same rule should be applied with double 
notches. 



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Kimono Sleeve Coat. Dress or Waist Without Shoulder Seams. 

Put back and tnmt shoulders together on any portions of 
your drawing paper. From neck draw a straight line down on 
the shoulder seam 23} _■ inches, or length of sleeve desired. 

Square 6 inches to left and 6 inches to right of 23 

On both under armhole points, go 3 ■ _• inches to left and 3] _■ 
inches to right, and connect each with the 6 inch points at both 
sides, which are the sleeve bottoms, about 13 inches long 
from 3 1 j. 

The 23 inch point is somewhat longer than the 6 inch 
points at either side, because the shoulder requires this extra 
material. 

Letter B represents back. 

Letter F represents front. 



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Extra Large Sizes Tailored Coat. 



This diagram shows that a coat of size 50 bust can be made 

in the same way as anj other coat. 

To get more room for the bus:, take out more from top of 
front shoulder to bust point than for a normal size as shown 
I and \-\ { . Always a. id to each side what you cut out from 
shoulder to bust point. 

On front waist line go in 3 inches instead of 2' _. inches. 

Place this 3 incb.es on under armhole side seam line, and go 
forward one-halt the waist measure, plus 2 inches. Remember 
this ! 2 is a ! 2 from the half waist measure. 

W idth oi back on waist line is 3 inches. Place this on under 
armhole side seam line, and conic back one-halt waist measure, 
plus 1 inch. Cut out the cloth which remains between the lines. 

On the back hip line go in 3 _• inches, or : _• inch more than 
on waist line. On this line go back 1 inch to the line which is 
to be sewed to the back seam. 

At an equal distance from the front piece 3, draw a line 
down from the second front piece line where the ' _■ and J are 
located. The 3 on front hip line added to the Z]A on hack hip 
line makes 6 _■ inches. 

Now figure the remainder of hip measure and divide b\ 
2, now arc backward \ ' 2 from second front seam, and arc forward 
other half from the 1 inch at back seam line. 

The under armhole side seam is located at center where arc 
lines cross. Add to edge 2]A inches for single breasted coat. 
i or 4 inches for double breasted coat. For collar, buttons 
and button holes see pages 34-35. 



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Diagram Showing 52 Bust and 62 Hip Finished Coat. 



This diagram shows how to make an extra large coat 
hust and 62 hip measure h\ adding an extra piece at the under 
armhole line. 

Divide the distance from the back waist line 3, to the under 

armhole side seam, h\ arcing forward three times. 

Are backward just one-third as much, from side seam on 
under armhole. Back hip line is always 3] _■ inches; from this i, r o 
backward \ ' 2 inch, and sew together with back. From same 

are forward three times the width of back hip line. 

From front edge o\ extra piece 3 , are back 2 inches, to 

get second front under armhole seam. From this are backward 
; inches to other edge of under armhole extra piece. 

Should hip measure be larger or smaller, reduce or enlarge 
the 3j 2 and 2 portions accordingly, but the 3' \ on back hip line 
always remains the same. 

Collar, buttons and button holes, see pages 34-35. 



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Plain Tailored Sleeve. 

Mark through the numbers on block which are the same as 
ust measure, and join together as shown on diagram. 



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Tailored Sleeve With Front Scam Turned In. 



Allow : inch on trout sleeve seam, from the regular block 
on front line. 

Take same amount awav from similar portion on under 
sleeve. Stretch the top sleeve well on the front seam at elbow 

portion, and at the same time shape the under sleeve in like pro- 
portion. This regulates the seam, causing it to always turn in 
properly. Also, for this reason under sleeve should contain a 
little more cloth at top and bottom. 

Make the elbow and sleeve lengths according to your meas- 
urements. Place the sleeve front seams in 2 _ inches forward 
from under armhole coat seam. 

All sizes of sleeves are made in the same manner. 



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Pleated Sleeve. 

This diagram shows vou how you can make a very full 
sleeve and a pleated top sleeve. 

Draw a straight line through middle of top sleeve. Draw 
a straight line out from end of top sleeve. 

For a gathered sleeve, go up 1 inch .\nd out 1 j inches from 
c\k\ of top sleeve. 

For a pleated top sleeve, go up twice as much and connect 
as per diagram. 

For turned in sleeve seam, use same directions as shown in 
diagram No. 99. 






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Raerlan Sleeve. 



The trout seam ma\ be made similar t«> No. °r. or with 
turned in seam like No. 99. 

From trom sleeve point go down 2 inches to A. In back 
go down ,^- ; to B. Connect A with B, and divide the line in 
half. 1 ocate ; on under sleeve. From this portion, which is 
about ■> ■ inches below center dot between A and B, draw a 
straight line across under sleeve .\nd divide in half. Repeat this 
performance at bottom of under sleeve. Now you have the 
center of top sleeve seams. 

On top of upper sleeve go in ; inches. From this go in 
1 inch and from here go in ; inch. 

Draw a line from A through 5 to a degree 7 inches be- 
yond ; . Draw a line from B through 1 to a degree 7 inches 

nd I. Add a : s width on each of both ends at 7. This will 
finish the width on neck. On the under sleeve end go down 

• inch. From here go down : j inch. Now connect >, ; . 
and Connect . • . and ; s. This rounds out sufficient 

>m for the shoulders. 

The two opposite crosses on end of each shoulder portion 
will show the correct location for the shoulder ends. 

\: both sides .. n 5 inches below the : s at top 7. Or 

the front go out 2] inches C from the shoulder seam. On the 
. x from the shoulder seam go out 2*] P From end oi top 
sleeve above B, . . inch higher, and _- inch out from the 

C innect : s. J ; P and _• with B .>- ; .. Go up J inches on 
top end of front slee\ . Connect : s at 7 with 2 C ami T. which 
- I inches higher from front sleeve point. 

All sizes '. raglan sleeves are made in the same way. Ar- 
.. the elbow and length according to your measurements. 
The length from end of shoulder to 7 make according to meas- 
urements. 






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Cape Without Shoulder Seam. 



Place the back ami front shoulder together on any part of 
cutting paper. Draw an\ style cape or collar, ami make as long 
as you want it. 

The side shoulder seam should be made J inches longer than 
front and back, in accordance to shoulder. 

If to be made with buttons and button holes, leave two ad- 
ditional inches on front. 



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Cape With Shoulder Seam. 

1 a\ the shoulders together; however, the front must be on 
a straight line according to the nap or stripe of cloth. 

Front about 29 inches long. Back 2 inches longer. 

From the neck through the shoulder, the side length is the 
same .is the front, 29 inches. 

When the back and front shoulders are laid together, draw- 
center back line on a level with the front line. 

On the shoulder line, draw a straight line for side seam 
down to 29 inch. From this point, are backward and forward 
b inches in each direction. 

From these points, draw two lines to be joined at shoulder 
end where the armhole end shows. As a guide to properly space 
these lines to end of shoulder, at a degree about J! inches below 
shoulder armhole and a width of _- inch on each side. 

For buttons and button holes. 1 ' _• inches should be allowed. 



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I Ugh Collar Cape, 



Tin the front and back shoulder together exactl} ol equal height and width, 
so that the lines will both be the same. 

Divide the rounded neck portion in half. Go 1 ' _> inches to left ami right 
from the center in each direction. From same renter point draw up 3] i inches, 
and go out 2 inches at each side of this point. 

Divide portion from end of bottom to end of neck into three parts, and con- 
nect same as on diagram. 

Cut from anil back part portions, alter the finished center part, as shown on 
diagram. Sew the three pieces together in a manner to cause the proper flare 

at the top. For buttons and button holes allow I ' _. or 2 inches on front. 





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Skirt Back and Front. 



A shows how the skirt front and back appears, alter proper 
numbers are marked through the block. 

Make skirt according to your measures ami desired length. 
The two crossed notches is where the two parts of skirt come 
together. 

B. Seleet ami mark through on block the numbers as per 
your hip measure. The skirt front and back and the waist line 
always remain the same on the block. 

M\ block is adjustable according to the hip measure, as the 
accurate waist measure cannot always be procured. The same- 
hip measurement is often required to be used with several dif- 
ferent waist measurements. 

If waist measure be same proportion as on block, make no 
changes. It waist measure be larger or smaller than on block, 
enlarge or reduce accordingly on front and back, from waist line 
to hip line. Hip line always remains the same. 

For a high fitted waist skirt, extend and enlarge the waist 
accordingly. 



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Skirt Without Side Scam. 



For seamless back and front, cut on the straight center front 
and center back line, at the folded edge ol cloth. 

Foi skirt without side seam, put the two crossed notches to 
gethei .is shown on diagram. In this manner skirt can also be 
made with a seam in center back only. 

To get the skirt wider at bottom than block permits, square 
down from waist line over hip line to any width bottom, also 
any length. 






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Panel Front and Panel Back. 



I sc the block in same way as for other skirts. 

For panel front, go in 4 inches on top front waist line. Go 
in 5 inches on same line on skirt bottom. Join these together. 

For panel hack do likewise, hut change the 4 inches to 3 
inches, and the 5 inches to 4 1 _• inches, because the back panel is 
always made smaller than front panel. 

If to be made with pleats, start same 12 or 14 inches above 
the bottom. 4 inches of additional cloth is required for each 
pleat. 

If panel back is not wanted, front remains the same. Put 
a seam on center back and allow 4 inches at each side for pleat. 

If wanted without seam in center back, cut the entire back 

in one piece and make the seam at the side. 

1' u r <-'t the correct waist measurement on panel front and 
panel back skirt, first cut out • a inch from the end of front piece 
panel seam. Then add the difference from the 4 inch front 
panel to side seam, and from the > _ inch hack panel, do the 
same wav. 



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Seven Piece Skirt. 



Lav the two crossed notches together on hip line and allow 

skirt to run as per clotted lines on diagram. 

To get the depth of hip line, go down 7 inches from front, 
and S inches from back of waist line. On the front waist line go 
in l l j inches, now cut out ' _• inch. On hip line 7, go in 2 ! _| 
inches. Draw a line from 2 1 , through 2} i to desired length. 

On back waist line go in 2$ inches. On hip line 8, go in 3 
inches. From 2-vj cut out 1 inch. From center of same draw a 
line through 3 to desired length. 

Divide in halt the distance between the 1 inch cut out at 
back, and the ' _. inch at front. 

As an example, suppose this waist measured 11 inches. Take 
one-half the waist measure, which is 1 1 inches. Now go in 3 
inches from the ' _• inch cut-out on front panel. Also 3 inches 
from the 1 inch cut-out on back panel. 

Add together front panel 2 1 [ and back panel 2-\ ; . with the 
two 3 inch spaces on waist line, which give you the 1 1 inches, 
or one-half the waist measurement. 

"U hen the waist measures more or less than 11 inches, the 
two .^ inch portions on the waist line should be enlarged or re- 
duced accordingly. The front and back panels always remain 
the same. 

Cut away all which remains between the two 3 inch por- 
tions, to get the side seam line. 

For the bottom side seam, also divide in half the distance 
between front and back panel seam, and connect as shown on 
diagram. Skirt may be made as long as desired. 

Hack pleat requires 4 inches. Skirt may be fastened at front, 
back or side. Leave 3 inches for facing. 



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Page One Hundred Seventeen 



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Pleated Skirt. 

These instructions will come in handy, as the styles are fre- 
quently changing. 

Connect the two crosses, allowing the side lines to run as 
shown on diagram No. 117. Draw a line on front, back and 
side according to your length of skirt. 

On the waist line, go in 2 inches on front. On hip line , . 
go in 2 : _■ inches. Go in 3^4 inches on back of waist line. On 
hip line 8, u r o in 4 1 _. inches. 

Divide the top waist line between inside end of Sv; and front 
end of waist line 2, into as many pieces as you desire to make the 
skirt. From each one of these evenly divided portions take away 
an equal amount of cloth, in order to get your proper size of 
waist. 

To get the side seam, divide the space from front to back 
in half at the bottom. 

Divide the bottom evenly into same number of pieces as at 
top waist line. Now connect the waist line and bottom as shown 
on diagram. Allow 4 inches for pleat on back. 



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/',/,/r 0/*e Hundred Nineteen 



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Riding Breeches. 

From X square in. Also square down from X to desired length oi breeches 

l'i> get No. 12. go in one-half waist measure, less I inch. 

From 12 go down I 1 inches to B, and continue the same straight line down 
to same length as side line X. From X L, r <> in 5 inches. 

Connect 5 with 1? 1 ' _■ to get the top part of waist line. From 12 go back 
inches. From 2' _• go up 2 1 _■ D. 

From side X ^o in 2 inches. From 2 go up to C I. 

Connect C I and 2' • 1). This gives you waist line on under trousers. To 
i your waist size, measure from A to 1>, and from C forward add one-half of 
what remains, and from I) backward add the other half. 

Cut out what is left between C and D as shown on diagram. 

From top side X go down \2 inches to E. This is the measure taken from 
waist to angle of seat while lad) is sitting in a chair. 

i)n 12 E go in ] j inch. Draw a line in from \2 E through 0. 

From dot which connects \2 E and \2, go out 5 inches, and up 5 inches. 

loin the end of each S together with a line, and divide the same in half, 
which gives the 3 ! _• on diagram. On the line which goes up S inches, go out 1 ' _• 
inches. Now connect P> , C . and 5. 

From \2 E go down 4 inches. From this 4 draw a line in lSj/2 inches. 

From this 15' _. go out 4 inches. Connect with a straight line 4 and 2'_> D. 
From I") J '• _• to 4, connect with a little round dot line as shown on diagram. 

On your length go in 4 1 j F. Connect this 4 1 j with 4 at side line, as shown 
on diagram. From F 4 1 j go in 6 inches to get the width of bottom oi under 
breeches. Connect 6 to 4 X as shown on diagram. 

From F 4 go in Ml inches for the bottom top oi breeches, which is al- 
ways about 4 inches largei than bottom of tinder breeches. 

From \0 go up 1- ; _|. foin 1 - ; j to F 4 1 [. Now join the same 14) with 5, o, 
through 15 

FOR CUFFS, draw on any part oi your cutting paper, a straight line IS 1 ) 

inches across or same length as width of bottom o\ breeches. It requires 10 
inches for bottom of top breeches. It requires 6] j inches for bottom of under 
breeches and 2 inches for buttons and button holes. At side go down l'j inches. 

Go in 2 inches on bottom. On the other side go down 1 inch. Go in l'j 
inches and connect as shown on diagram, foin the cults to the bottom of breeches 
so that all the parts match perfectly. 

Cuffs can be made an\ desired width, whether 4, 6, S or 10 inches. 
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Riding I [abit Skirt. 



Waist 2b; hip measure 45: length 42. 

It measures are larger or smaller than these pro- 
portions, change the hip and waist measures ac- 

U.; on underskirt l. is the depth of hip line. 
l! ; . is depth ot hip line on top skirt 2. 

m these lines, skirts can be made larger or 
er, as may be desired. 
In order to get your waist measure, reduci 
enlarg • i darts accordii 

The arrows show in which direction the naj 
material should run. The arrows in the 

P on the trout skirt also show in which 
direction the nap ot material should run. 

To join the left side ot underskirt and top skirt 
tirst cut out and sew part v 
;er on left side skirt, then connect A with A. 
On part B of left side l is shown two buttons. 
On top skirt 2 part B is shown J button hi s 
These indicate th< ocation ior same. 

On l and J. hooks and eyes, clasps and but 
and button holes can be made on extra piece-. D. 
No. I will require l - _■ inches of addi- 
tional cloth. 

The lour bottom buttons should always remain 
• .. They may even be - toget er, so that 

a it top represents the p.. tel 
where ski" - • 5. Hie pockets an 

s. : 

The cloth always cuts - a :id with 
up. Sew together from end to end. extra . ece I 1 
on top. and extra piece D on lett side 1. 

Number 1. Draw . straight line across the 
and from front end of same di rallel line 

down • f 45 inches. On this front 

line go down 1 inch. 3 inches. 4 inches s 

inches. 13 - '.(-•'_. \~- inches. 25 

es. 

in on line 1. 9 inches and ll- : 4 inches. G 
; on 9. 
Connect with 1 1 : ,. « hich mak - 

On lint i a s 1 - and lo in< 
This a - i the width cut out between 12 and 
On line 4 go in 7-^. 11 - 5 4 . 14^ and 2 

C nnect lo - so gives 

the waist line. 

On line S a 5 . . 22. Hie position of 

rs local tet a here 

skirt - - 

\ shows t 

Mo. 22 is ss than one-third of hip m - 

go in 4 

Number ". s the seao line. 

NJo. 15 shows i s of ( 

: i 
\ " s the s 

\ 23 s - - 



From ll go throug From 

. and connect with A. 
On line 17 ' ; go in 7 s 22. 
Cut out portion between 7- : _> and 8 
Ends of dans C, J7J and 23 will come together. 

m front straight line on 25 £o in 3 J • and 

A. 
1' get width of skirt bottom, go in 3 : _. and 

2 8 inches. 
On 3 a ip to 6 and from 6 go out 1 - _- inches. 
On 28 g Nov match and join all the 

- carefully together as shown in diagram. 
/' p Parti • Riding Habit Skirt No. 2. 

Again draw a straight line across top. 

Also draw a parallel line down from sleeves and 

wn 3, 5, 6; -. li». II 

29. 
On top line a 
On line 3 go in 
Join together as shown on diagram. This line 

- you the opening on the extra piece D. 

On iine 5 go in I 23 .-'._. Join this with 

25yi, 24 23 get part of the waist line on 

. piece D. 
On line - i 

.-. 
( ha , ■ . inch. On 10 go up 

inch. Now join together for pa:: list line. 

On 13 a inch. On 17 : j go down 

Nov ivith 21 

line. 

_ - - .- 

On 11 a in 4. 10 .-.!l-_. 2°-. 31 ..41. 4 
- 

• a 
57, -. 15 48 - 
On 45 }4 go down l'j inch and conn 

- s - " - shown on diagram. 

A s i nnect -3 - - - - ; " - 

the end of the extra piece. 
On sh »rt line 15".- go in 3 : _ and 10, which is 
end of darts. 

• i shows 

: knee v tra piece P should b 

On 23 _ ■• - On 29 g 

N >W MEASURE gi ft side oi Un- 

rskirt 1. 

rt A. From 21 ' L :nake the 

same leng - I skirt 

\ ch will measure on lini ; 

- - ime length as No. 1. line A. 

on the front 

straight a ; 

On 5 _ " s for v idth f si I 

\ . : j . . straight 

line. 

v nect all the lines - - _v.m. 



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I'ni/i- One Hundred TwentyThree 



Designing Suits and Long Coats. 

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Hundred Twenty Four 






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^ Designing Dresses 





The first is a dress designing system. The second is readv to use, without 
the slightest need of learning a system. 

Lav up this little block on any part of the paper. Draw a line around the 
end, and make as many different styles as you wish. 

You know one cannot accomplish anything without a little practice, so do 
not allow yourself to become impatient, as practice will make perfect. 

Page One Hundred Twenty Wive 



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Finished Designing. 



All the other designs show how to make different kinds of 
suits from the same pattern. 



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